Autumn dress

orchid-dress_00This is a very quick post about a simple autumn dress…

Analysing my wardrobe, I realised that I needed more simple, throw-on dresses. This project started with inspiration from a dress that a friend wore on holiday, made from black lyocell twill; the perfect thing to dress up or down. Searching online for black twill (if anyone knows where to get black viscose or lyocell twill, please let me know!) I came across this lovely orchid-print viscose twill from Abakhan. I’m not the biggest fan of autumn (I find the dark evenings depressing) and needed an excuse to get excited about cold-weather sewing. This rust/cream print definitely helped me to get a little bit more excited about the colder months.

For the pattern, I found a dress very similar to my friend’s dress in a French sewing magazine (fashion Style N°9). I only had to change the front neck slit to a back key-hole design and I had the perfect pattern.

It’s a very simple dress. Kimono sleeves, an elasticated waist, a simple slit at the skirt and the added keyhole at the back of the neck. The neck is finished with a facing, which I attached to the shoulder seams with some top stitching. Thanks to the busy print the stitches are barely noticeable. All seams are finished with my overlock, which was super quick and clean. All in all it took no time to put together but the final dress is really nice and super comfy.

The fabric was very easy to work with. It’s the first time I actually worked with viscose twill, and I really like it. It has enough body for a dress but still drapes really well. Even though it’s viscose, it doesn’t wrinkle too badly either. And I just love this print, the colours are just perfect!

So all in all a great little dress. Can you believe that this is my first dress with an elasticated waist? What took me so long?

I might tweak the pattern slightly next time (remove some of the volume of the sleeves, lower the waist a tiny bit) and once I’ve found the perfect fabric, I will hopefully recreate the little black dress of my dreams.

I hope you are all inspired to do some autumn sewing!






A shirt for the man

shirt_01This selfless sewing thing, it really not that easy when sewing time is so limited and most of the self-less sewing time is used up for baby presents. Still a shirt for my boyfriend had been on my list for ages. He’s been so supportive of my sewing adventures (he takes all the pictures for my blog) and the only thing that I ever sewed for him was a wonky, oversized T-shirt.

After having dabbled in shirt-making (the birthday shirt for my brother and blouses for myself) I knew that I wanted to make him a shirt next. At one of the Minerva Crafts Sales I got the Burda Style 6874 men’s shirt pattern, which looked like a good basic shirt that could work for proper work shirts as well as something more casual. While I really liked the Colette Negroni shirt, as an introduction to men’s shirts, I wanted something less retro and this fit the bill perfectly. When I was looking for a suitable fabric I came across this blue and black double-gauze plaid from Ditto Fabrics (unfortunately I don’t think they sell it anymore), which I first saw on Flossie Teacakes blog, made up into a beautiful shirt. It’s not the most usual fabric for a shirt, but I liked the idea of using both sides of the fabric with the larger and the smaller check.

After discussing the design options with my boyfriend, we decided to go for subtle contrasts, using the smaller check for the collar stand, the lower collar piece, the lower button band, the sleeve plackets and the gussets. We also decided on one invisible front pocket and a single box pleat in the back.

Having never sewn a shirt for him before, I checked his measurements against the chart and then the pattern pieces against one of his shirts. Amazingly I didn’t have to make any adjustments, except for shortening the hem by maybe 3 centimetres.

The construction itself was quite straightforward. The double-gauze made it a little bit difficult to sew super-accurately but with the texture of the fabric, slightly wonky seams are not noticeable anyways. The only changes I made to the construction, compared to the pattern, were to use the Negroni Shirt sleeve placket and fold the lower button band over instead of under, to show the back side of the fabric. For the collar, I used the Granville shirt instructions (though I am not convinced by the neatness of this method, I still might have to try other methods to find the ideal one). I also finished all the seams with flat-felled seams for a neat and sturdy finish. Again I realised how much I enjoy sewing technical details. Shirt-making is so much fun and sleeve plackets might actually be my favourite thing to sew.

The fit of the shirt is actually pretty good, considering that this is the first shirt I made for him. Next time I will shorten the sleeves a smidge and maybe bring the collar in slightly as the gap in the middle seems quite wide.

Overall, I absolutely love this shirt on him! It’s a lovely casual shirt which, thanks to the contrasting details, is not too boring. It was also amazing to have him in front of the camera for a change. Doesn’t he make a dapper model? In real life he also does smile a little bit more, we took these pictures just on a very cold and gloomy day. Let’s see how well this shirt will integrate in my boyfriend’s minimalist wardrobe. Maybe there will be some more of these shirts in the future.

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Sophie Swimsuit


So it’s time to get the last summer blog post out of the way and move on to more weather-appropriate sewing.

First can we talk about the beauty of analog photos? For the first time in ages we decided to take our analog camera on holiday and I love how the pictures turned out. I especially love the snapshot of my new Sophie Swimsuit (above).

Swimsuit sewing had been on my list since knowing that we would have a 2-week beach holiday in the south of France this summer. I wasn’t settled on a pattern until Heather of Closet Case Files released the Sophie Swimsuit and I immediately knew it would be the perfect pattern.

After having practised sewing swimsuit fabric on the simpler Noelle Swimsuit I felt prepared enough to dig into this more complex pattern.

Fist I had to find all the materials though. The fabric issue was solved with again using fabric from Contrado, based on a simple brush-stroke stripe design (you need to wear stripes when beaching in France right?). Same as for the Noelle Swimsuit I chose Slinky Lycra Matt, which again was the perfect choice.

Then the notions. For this padded underwire bra style quite a lot of different notions are needed and it took me ages to find the right ones (if someone knows good UK or European online shops with a good range of swimwear notions, please let me know!). In the end I got most of it from MacCulloch & Wallis, a London shop that I had ordered from before. They stocked the bra foam padding, underwire channelling, S-hook closure and the swimsuit elastic. The foam was only sold by the metre, so I have bra foam for a lifetime. Both the foam and the underwire were normal bra making materials, not specifically for swimsuits, I couldn’t figure out if that would be necessary. The underwires I had left over from bra making, ordered from the Merckwaerdigh Etsy Shop, the swimsuit lining I got off ebay.

When I purchased the pattern, I considered buying the video workshop, which I’m sure would have been great. Since I had made an underwire bra before, however, I decided the pdf pattern would be enough. As always with Closet Case Files patterns the instructions are very thorough and the blog has great posts that walk you through some of the main points.

The sewing started with some head-scratching though when it came to choosing the sizing for the bikini top. When I measured my bust, the chart put me in a cup size between a 4 and a 5 (5 being the biggest size). I made sure to read the corresponding blog post on the sizing and other reviews and knew that these cup sizes don’t correspond to the normal A, B, C sizing. Still, I’m just about an A cup and the underwires would have been between a 36 and a 38, which based on the wire size chart were a lot bigger than the underwires of my bras. I also hadn’t purchased any underwires as I had a bunch left over from the bra making, so I decided to use the ones I had (size 32). Just to make sure the cup wouldn’t turn out too small I basted the cup pieces together and checked the fit, which seemed fine. While I’m not an expert on the fit of bras, I don’t feel the final bikini top is too small. I did notice though that the top does have more coverage on others that have sewn it up, so maybe a slightly bigger cup was intended. I might test out a bigger cup size next time.

Overall the construction was quite straight-forward and the whole thing came together quickly (which was necessary, as I sewed it up the day before going on holiday). The only issue were some raw edges at the corners of the cup that were not enclosed properly. I might have just not been exact enough when cutting and sewing. The problem was quickly solved with some hand stitches. Next time I’ll also make sure to stretch the upper layer a little bit tighter over the cup. As it is now, it wrinkles slightly. Another thing, that I would want to resolve are the wrinkles at the cradle. This is an issue that many versions online have (even the product photos), probably caused by the stretchiness of the cradle fabric. The pattern tells you to underline the main fabric with some non-stretchy material. I had some netting left over from my last bra, which is supposed to be non-stretch. It still it had a little bit of give, which will have caused the wrinkles. I’ll make sure to hunt for something more suitable next time. For the closure I decided to go for a simple silver S-hook, which turned out really pretty and looks a lot fancier than the typical plastic bikini closure.

In the end the bikini top turned out really cute. I especially like the neck ties and the retro feel. You might have noticed that for the bottoms I decided to do something different than the high waisted ones the pattern came with. While I love the look of them, I tend to wear low cut bottoms more and I had just made some high waisted bottoms for the Noelle Swimsuit, so two high waisted bottoms would have been too much. I do have enough fabric left over though, so I might make some high waisted ones in the future. I didn’t use a pattern for these bottoms but just traced off some underpants I own. I didn’t really take the time to calculate the size based on the stretch of the fabric, and they turned out a little small. It didn’t prevent me from wearing them all the time though…

Overall the bikini turned out lovely, perfect for our time at the Côte d’Azur. It’s held up really well and is comfortable to wear. The only issue is that the cup foam soaks up all the water (bra making foam might not be that suitable for swimwear after all) and I had to wring out the top after swimming, to avoid dripping the whole day. Still nothing that would have prevented me from wearing it.

I would love to make another Sophie Swimsuit at some point. I have some lovely floral fabric that I want to use, possibly in combination with some stripes or some solid fabric. Or I’ll make another one playing around with the stripes. I’ve seen some lovely versions online doing that (e.g. Selmin’s lovely Sophie).
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So, that’s it for summer sewing. I’m really sad to see summer go, and am trying hard to get excited about autumn sewing. I’m thinking rust, velvet and tutlenecks (maybe not all in one …  but then again, why not?).